Scientific Understanding of Glutathione Mechanism of Action
Amorepacific researchers focus on the mechanism of action of Glutathione to explore its potential in cosmetics. The main pathways of action of Glutathione mentioned in the research literature can be largely summarized into three.
Antioxidant defense mechanism
Glutathione exerts antioxidant activity by acting as a free radical scavenger in the reductive detoxification process of hydrogen peroxide and lipid peroxides [5]. In mammalian cells, glutathione acts as an electron donor, and during electron donation, it is converted into the oxidized form (GSSG) by glutathione peroxidase but is returned to the reduced form (GSH) by glutathione reductase in the presence of NADPH [5].
Melanin production regulation pathway
One of glutathione's skin-related effects is the activation of the pheomelanin pathway. Pheomelanin synthesis begins with the combination of L-dopaquinone, formed from L-tyrosine and cysteine, and this reaction produces cysteinyldopa, a pheomelanin precursor. Glutathione can also combine with L-dopaquinone in the presence of glutathione S-transferase to produce glutathionyldopa, a precursor of cysteinyldopa [5].
Tyrosinase inhibition
Glutathione's skin-related effects stem from the direct and indirect inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme and the conversion from eumelanin to pheomelanin production [1]. Glutathione is being studied as an ingredient that can help improve skin tone by directly and indirectly inhibiting tyrosinase activity and shifting the melanin production pathway toward pheomelanin rather than eumelanin [1].
Amorepacific's Glutathione and Antioxidant Research
Bio-redox Technology
Amorepacific has continued research to restore the skin's antioxidant environment and developed a technology focusing on the thioredoxin enzyme, which plays a key role in the body's antioxidant system in the same way as glutathione. BIO-REDOX, a proprietary ingredient applied to IOPE, closely replicates thioredoxin, a skin-active enzyme that decreases with age, and was designed to support the skin's own antioxidant capacity by combining thioredoxin, pyruvate-adenosine, and Vitamin PP. After 4 weeks of use, the skin's antioxidant capacity was confirmed to have improved from 28.1% to 47.3% [22].
Glutathione Complex Formula
Recently, Amorepacific has been expanding antioxidant and skin tone-focused formulas utilizing Glutathione. Amorepacific's official articles present a case combining pure Vitamin C with 98%-purity Bio Glutathione, representing an approach that aims for both skin tone improvement and radiance care through the combination of high-efficacy antioxidant ingredients [24][25].
In addition, glutathione is also applied to Sulhwatumyeongdan™, Sulwhasoo's proprietary complex ingredient. This ingredient has a structure that blends plum blossom extract, carnosine, and glutathione, and is used in making the skin clearer and more translucent through antioxidant and anti-glycation effects [26].
Industry-Academia Collaboration Antioxidant
Meanwhile, Amorepacific developed a new-concept organic/inorganic hybrid electron antioxidant that effectively removes various reactive oxygen species through joint research with the ERICA Campus of Hanyang University. This material has the characteristic of maintaining stable antioxidant performance even under various environmental changes, such as water, oil, acidity, temperature, and light, and is attracting attention as a technical approach that complements the stability challenges of antioxidant ingredients such as glutathione [23].
Realistic Application in Cosmetics
When applying this scientific background to cosmetics, several practical considerations are necessary.
While the safety of topical and oral Glutathione appears favorable, its efficacy (especially long-term efficacy) remains in question [8]. Although several studies have demonstrated the ability to reduce pigmentation and improve skin health when administered orally or topically, inconsistencies in results and concerns about bioavailability persist [6]. Cosmetics work primarily at the skin's surface, and the stratum corneum, and delivery technology, formulation stability, and formulation design determine the perceived effect. It is advisable to approach an ingredient not as an "all-purpose solution" but as "one part of a skincare routine."
Amorepacific's Research Direction
Amorepacific has conducted research to enhance the skin's innate strength by diversifying formulation technologies utilizing high-concentration active ingredients such as thioredoxin (an antioxidant enzyme) and bioactive ingredients that support skin cell function [12]. Through a commitment to advanced research, Amorepacific has developed technologies that maximize the efficacy of ingredients through convergence [11].
Amorepacific conducts comprehensive research on skin biology, delivery technology, and formulation stability, and considers the ethical sourcing of raw materials, environmental impact, and long-term skin health from the perspective of sustainable beauty.
Products utilizing antioxidant ingredients such as glutathione can be found in Amorepacific's Sulwhasoo and IOPE.
You can learn more about Amorepacific's research and development philosophy and the latest technology trends at the link below.