Scientific Understanding of Soybean Mechanism of Action
Amorepacific researchers focus on the mechanism of action of soybean to explore its potential in cosmetics. The main pathways of action of soybean mentioned in the research can be summarized as follows.
Isoflavone-based collagen and antioxidant pathways
Genistein and daidzein are reported to activate the TGF-β/Smad pathway in fibroblasts to raise the mRNA expression of type I and type IV collagen, elastin, and fibrillin-1, while at the same time lowering the expression of matrix metalloproteinases 1 and 2 (MMP-1, MMP-2) and raising TIMP protein levels to reduce collagen breakdown. [1] They regulate the NF-κB and MAPK (ERK, JNK, p38) signaling pathways activated upon UV exposure from a different angle, and a pattern of suppressing COX-2 and DNA-damage signaling while preserving PCNA has also been confirmed [1], making this a pathway studied in a multi-layered way for anti-aging and photoaging support.
PAR-2-mediated melanosome transfer inhibition and ODI melanin-synthesis regulation pathways
The protease inhibitors BBI and STI contained in soybean extract have been reported to block PAR-2 (Protease-Activated Receptor 2) on keratinocytes, reducing melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes and regulating UV-induced pigmentation from a different angle. [5] At the same time, the ODI derivatives generated in fermented soybean were confirmed to lower MITF and tyrosinase expression in B16 melanoma and human skin equivalent models, reducing melanin synthesis [4], and they are being examined as a signaling-stage mechanism supporting tone correction.
Amorepacific's Soybean Research
Amorepacific has researched the health and beauty benefits of Soybean for more than 30 years. As a crop that has stood at the center of the Korean Peninsula's food and fermentation culture, Soybean has been the subject of Amorepacific's ongoing research to uncover new skin-benefit value from this familiar plant resource. In particular, starting from the use of the representative component isoflavones, Amorepacific discovered ODI (Ortho-Dihydroxyisoflavone), a rare metabolite generated during fermentation, and elucidated a range of skin benefits including moisturizing, antioxidant, tone support, and anti-aging support. [14][15][16]
ODI exists in extremely small amounts in nature, making it difficult to utilize, but Amorepacific succeeded in mass-producing it through bioconversion technology. This is significant in that it expanded plant-material research beyond simple extraction into bio-materialization research that secures rare functional components using fermentation and bioconversion technology. [14][15][16]
In addition, to uncover the value of native soybeans, Amorepacific obtained about 140 native soybean varieties preserved at a genetic-resources center and comprehensively evaluated their cultivation characteristics, component composition, and skin benefits. As a result, it selected a flat soybean variety (nappaki bean) suitable as a cosmetic raw ingredient and developed it as AP Beauty Bean No. 1, and through follow-up breeding research, it is also pursuing the development of AP Beauty Bean No. 2, which is superior in composition and easy to cultivate. [14][15]
The scope of research did not remain with soybean seeds alone but expanded to soybean leaves as well. Amorepacific studied the skin benefits of soybean leaves according to cultivation environment and harvest timing, and in particular confirmed that soybean leaves harvested during the autumn-coloring period contain a large amount of skin anti-aging components, turning this into a raw material. It currently operates its own cultivation sites in Yeongwol, Paju, Jeju, and other locations, continuing seed preservation of rare native soybeans, development of superior varieties, and research into components and benefits by growth conditions. [14][15]
More recently, the potential of soybean-derived components to improve the skin barrier and stress-induced skin damage has also been proposed. Amorepacific presented research findings at an international investigative dermatology research conference that coumestrol, a component found in soybean, may ease the decline in skin barrier function associated with the action of the stress hormone cortisol. This shows that soybean research is expanding beyond radiant and anti-aging benefits into the areas of stress-induced skin damage and barrier function regulation. [17]
In addition, related academic research suggests that soybean-derived functional components may be linked to skin physiological activity, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-barrier-regulating potential. This supports the idea that soybean-based materials can expand beyond simple plant-derived raw materials into bio-functional materials. [16][17][18]
These research assets are becoming the foundation for developing soybean not as a simple plant raw ingredient but as an integrated material platform connecting component discovery, bioconversion, variety breeding, cultivation management, and skin-benefit verification. These technology assets have been applied across Amorepacific's brands: Primera's Seed Tech™ is likewise expanding into a technology story from the perspective of skin barrier and skin-condition support, based on research into plant-seed-derived components and a germination- and vitality-based skincare philosophy. [14][15][20]
Amorepacific's soybean research can be seen as a representative case of heritage-ingredient research that reinterprets Korea's unique plant and fermentation heritage through modern biotechnology to realize the values of skin homeostasis, barrier support, and anti-aging. [14][15][16][17][18][19][20]
Realistic Application in Cosmetics
When applying this scientific background to cosmetics, several practical considerations are necessary.
The related research was carried out across various fields such as pharmacological and cellular experiments or dietary clinical studies, and cosmetics work primarily at the skin's surface and the stratum corneum. [1][2] In addition, soybean isoflavones are polyphenols sensitive to light and oxygen, and for proteins such as BBI and STI, molecular weight and formulation stability determine the perceived effect [5][6], so it is advisable to approach soybean not as an "all-purpose solution" but as "one part of a skincare routine," while also looking at formulations suited to your purpose—anti-aging, antioxidant, tone correction, and so on. Amorepacific conducts integrated research from the preservation of native soybeans to fermentation and bioconversion processes and formulation stability, designing so that soybean-derived active components maintain their original activity at the formulation stage. [10]
Amorepacific's Research Direction
Amorepacific is researching the potential of Soybean from multiple angles. While raising its value as a cosmetic raw ingredient through the preservation and breeding of native soybeans, Amorepacific comprehensively examines delivery technologies such as fermentation and bioconversion and formulation stability, building on a deep understanding of skin biology, and approaches this from the perspective of sustainable beauty that considers the ethical sourcing of raw materials, environmental impact, and long-term skin health.
Products utilizing soybean-related technology can be found at Amorepacific's Primera. You can learn more about Amorepacific's research and development philosophy and technology trends at the link below.