Zinc is a trace element with atomic number 30 and an essential mineral distributed at a certain concentration in the skin's epidermis and upper dermis. In the skin, Zinc acts as a cofactor for the proliferation and differentiation of the stratum basale and keratinocytes and for over 200 enzymes, including matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). [2] In cosmetics, rather than elemental zinc itself, various salt forms are used—notably Zinc PCA combined with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), Zinc Gluconate combined with gluconic acid, Zinc Sulfate combined with sulfuric acid, and Zinc Oxide used as an inorganic UV filter and white pigment. [1][3][7][8][14] Among these, the water-soluble salt series (Zinc PCA, Gluconate, Sulfate) is mainly addressed in sebum and blemish care formulations, with multiple functions reported such as regulation of sebaceous gland activity through 5α-reductase inhibition, inhibition of microbes such as C. acnes (acne-associated bacteria), and easing the flow of inflammatory factors such as TNF-α and IL-6. [1][2][6]
The skin benefits of zinc have long been recognized. Calamine (a mineral powder containing zinc oxide) has been used since before the 19th century to soothe the skin and protect its surface [1], and from the mid-to-late 20th century, topical 5% zinc sulfate was evaluated clinically as a topical agent for mild to moderate blemishes, laying the foundation for full-fledged dermatological research. [1] In the 1980s, clinical studies on the effect of zinc on sebum secretion were published [9], and from the 1990s onward, the water-soluble salt forms Zinc PCA and Zinc Gluconate—which offer excellent stability and sensory feel—broadened their range of use in the cosmetic field. [3][7][8][14] In the 2000s, mechanistic reviews were compiled describing how zinc is involved in 5α-reductase inhibition, inhibition of C. acnes proliferation, and easing the flow of inflammatory factors such as TNF-α and IL-6. [1] Since the 2010s, dermocosmetic clinical studies of Zinc PCA combined with vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and vitamin B6 derivatives [8], and multicenter clinical studies of niacinamide combined with microbial balance support agents and Zinc PCA [6] have expanded the clinical evidence base. Molecular reviews addressing zinc transporters (ZIP/ZnT), epidermal formation, and barrier homeostasis [2] have also followed. In the US CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) safety assessment, water-soluble zinc salts were evaluated as safe when used at up to 1% zinc [4][5], and multiple zinc compounds such as Zinc Gluconate and Zinc Oxide are listed in the European cosmetic ingredient database (COSMILE Europe). [4][7]