Have you ever been concerned about your skin losing elasticity and feeling saggy as you age, fine lines deepening every time you look in the mirror, and skin texture that looks dry and dull? When the collagen in the skin decreases, once-firm skin feels lifeless, moisture retention declines, and the skin can look devitalized overall. If your concerns are "firmness care," "skin resilience," or "elasticity reinforcement," the ingredient that comes to mind is Collagen. As a key protein that serves as a structural support in the dermal layer of our skin, it has long been used as a cosmetic ingredient.

While Collagen is an ingredient with a long research history in the medical field, how it works in cosmetics may differ from its applications in medical research. For those concerned about loss of skin elasticity or dryness, or who wish to choose cosmetics based on ingredients, we explore Collagen from the perspective of a cosmetic ingredient and introduce how it can be incorporated into your skincare routine.

Collagen at a Glance

CategoryKey SummaryCheck Point
Ingredient Name
Collagen, Hydrolyzed Collagen
May appear on product labels as Collagen, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Collagen Peptides, etc.
Ingredient Classification
Fibrillar Protein
Collagen belongs to the family of fibrillar proteins and is composed of left-handed α polypeptide chains that form a right-handed super-helix structure [1]
Source
Animal (cattle, pig), marine (fish skin, scales)
Hydrolyzed collagen can be extracted from various raw materials such as cattle and pig skin, marine organisms, chicken skin, and fish cartilage [8]
Expected Skin Benefits
A sense of skin hydration, smoother skin texture, firmness, skin barrier support
Gradual and cumulative rather than dramatic is realistic
Functions in Research
When using products containing collagen or peptides, reduction in wrinkle depth, improved moisturizing, reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and improved skin density and elasticity have been studied [1]
Based on medical applications; cosmetic results vary by individual
Suitable Skin Types
Dry skin, skin that feels a loss of firmness, skin concerned with fine lines, skin needing smoother texture
Consultation with a specialist is recommended if you are allergic to specific raw materials (fish, cattle, etc.)
Precautions
Collagen generally does not cause side effects [13], but some individuals may show an allergic reaction to collagen (a case of redness and swelling after applying bovine-derived collagen around the eyes has been reported) [19]
Check co-formulated ingredients; a patch test is recommended

What is Collagen?

Collagen is a family of fibrillar proteins that make up the extracellular matrix of mammalian connective tissue, serving as the fundamental protein responsible for its structure and biochemical properties of connective tissue. In the case of skin, it accounts for about 70% of the dry weight. [1] The chemical structure of collagen mainly includes proline, hydroxyproline, glycine, and hydroxylysine. [1] Collagen exists naturally in the dermis in fiber form, providing the skin with appropriate density and elasticity. [1]

To date, 29 types of collagen have been discovered. [9] The main collagen types include type I collagen (skin, tendon, bone tissue), type II (cartilage), and type III (skin and vascular system). [9] In cosmetics, type I and type III collagen are mainly used. Cosmetic formulations mainly use hydrolyzed peptides containing short, water-soluble polypeptides and small peptides; these hydrophilic molecules are easy to incorporate into cosmetic formulations, and by being small, may reach different layers of the skin depending on peptide size, formulation, and delivery technology. [23][1]

Differences Between Collagen and Similar Ingredients

There are similar ingredients often mentioned alongside Collagen. Understanding the characteristics of each ingredient is helpful when checking a product's ingredient list.

Ingredient NameCharacteristics
Native Collagen
Collagen in its natural form has low water solubility due to its high molecular weight (about 300 kDa) [3]
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Hydrolyzed collagen is composed of small, short peptides derived from the whole collagen molecule (molecular weight less than 3 kDa) and dissolves easily in water at neutral pH [6]
Collagen Peptides
Collagen peptides are low molecular weight peptides obtained by hydrolyzing collagen—short amino acid chains rich in collagen-constituting amino acids such as glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline. Their smaller molecular weight compared to regular collagen can increase the potential for absorption and utilization when applied to the skin or ingested, but the actual level of skin penetration may vary depending on the molecular weight, charge, hydrophilicity, formulation, and delivery technology of the peptide. [23][24][25]
Low Molecular Weight Collagen
Low molecular weight collagen (less than 4.5 kDa) can successfully penetrate the skin [5]

Low molecular weight hydrolyzed collagen may support hydration-related functions depending on molecular size and formulation design. [6] In cosmetics, low molecular weight hydrolyzed collagen is more widely used because it is advantageous in terms of skin penetration.

Benefits of Collagen

When discussing Collagen in cosmetics, the key point is "structural support and moisture retention for the skin." Based on the research accumulated in the medical field, the benefits you can expect from cosmetics are summarized as follows.

1. Supplying and Retaining Skin Hydration

Prolonged exposure to dry environments or air conditioning can leave skin feeling tight and prone to flaking. Hydrolyzed collagen has been identified as a safe cosmetic ingredient with good moisturizing properties in the stratum corneum. [3] This is because it contains several natural moisturizing factors (NMF) such as serine, aspartic acid, hydroxylysine, and hydroxyproline. [6]

However, in cosmetics, it provides a moisturizing effect at the skin's surface, and collagen's large molecular size limits the depth to which it can penetrate the skin upon topical application. [4] Therefore, hydrolyzed collagen or collagen peptide forms are used more effectively.

2. Refined Skin Texture and Smoothness

When the skin's surface is rough and dry, makeup tends to flake, and skin tone appears uneven. Hydrolyzed collagen reduces the effects of skin aging (dryness, laxity, wrinkles). [3] Collagen has interesting properties as a natural moisturizer and humectant for the skin, attracting the interest of the cosmetics industry. [9]

This effect can be experienced when using cosmetics but may vary depending on individual skin condition and environment.

3. Support for Firmness

As we age, the collagen content of the skin naturally decreases. Young skin is composed of 80% type I collagen and about 15% type III collagen. As we age, collagen fibers become thicker and shorter, resulting in a loss of type I collagen. [7] Collagen-containing products have been studied in relation to skin-firmness-associated and skin-appearance-related outcomes. [1]

Unlike medical procedures that directly add structural support, topical Collagen products are best understood as gradually improving skin texture and firmness mainly through surface-level moisturizing and alleviation of moisture loss. [20]

4. Skin Barrier Support

When the skin barrier weakens due to environmental stress or seasonal changes, moisture loss accelerates, and skin can become more sensitive to external irritants. Collagen has the ability to form an occlusive film that retains water and prevents evaporation. [3][21] Research has confirmed that the use of products containing Collagen or peptides helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). [1]

This can indirectly contribute to maintaining skin barrier function.

5. Combination with Other Ingredients

Collagen can offer synergistic effects when used together with various active ingredients. Vitamin C is known to improve collagen production through collagen synthesis, and without this vitamin, collagen synthesis does not occur. [12][27] Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) can enhance dermal matrix components that help improve wrinkles by increasing collagen. [12][27]

For example, when used with Vitamin C, it can help support collagen synthesis and manage skin tone, and when used with hyaluronic acid, the moisturizing power can be strengthened.

Amorepacific's Perspective on Collagen

Skin changes every day amid different environments and conditions. Rather than presenting a particular ingredient as the "right answer," Amorepacific has explored ways to flexibly select and use ingredients according to each individual's skin condition and goals. Collagen is likewise an ingredient whose potential has been explored from multiple angles through long-term research.

Scientific Understanding of Collagen Mechanism of Action

Amorepacific researchers focus on the mechanism of action of Collagen to explore its potential in cosmetics. The main pathways of action of Collagen mentioned in the research literature can be summarized as follows.

Moisturizing and film-forming mechanism

Collagen is mainly used in cosmetics to moisturize the skin. This molecule exists naturally in the connective tissue of the dermis [1] and has the ability to form an occlusive film that retains water and prevents evaporation. [3][21] Hydrolyzed collagen contains several natural moisturizing factors (NMF) such as serine, aspartic acid, hydroxylysine, and hydroxyproline, contributing to moisturizing. [6]

Differences in penetration and function by molecular weight

The appropriate application and usefulness of Collagen vary depending on molecular size. After 12 hours, a strong fluorescent signal was observed in the dermis, showing that low molecular weight collagen had demonstrated greater penetration potential. However, bovine collagen (high molecular weight) continued to show weak dermal fluorescence even after 12 hours, suggesting limited penetration ability. [4] Hydrolyzed collagen is composed of small, short peptides with a molecular weight of less than 3 kDa, dissolving easily in water, and thanks to its low molecular weight, it can penetrate into the deep layers of the skin and directly contribute to maintaining and improving skin hydration. [6]

Amorepacific's Collagen Research

Amorepacific is expanding Collagen-based materials into various formulations, broadening the scope of application of its firmness care technology. LANEIGE applies the Peony & Collagen Complex and peptides, and utilizes SmoothTech capsule technology in an approach that strengthens the skin's smoothness, hydration, and firmness. [18] This trend demonstrates the direction of expanding collagen materials beyond simple moisturizing to improving skin structure and texture.

Realistic Application in Cosmetics

When applying this scientific background to cosmetics, several practical considerations are necessary. Existing research has not provided sufficiently robust evidence for collagen supplements due to the weight difference between topically and systemically absorbed collagen. [2] A significant portion of the research evidence was accumulated in the contexts of pharmaceuticals, medical devices, and professional procedures, and cosmetics work primarily at the skin's surface and the stratum corneum. [2]

Collagen's skin permeability may be limited due to its inherently large molecular weight, but reducing its molecular size through hydrolysis and recombinant collagen technology can increase its potential for topical application. [4] Delivery technology, formulation, and formula stability determine the perceived effect, and it is realistic to approach an ingredient not as an "all-purpose solution" but as "one part of a skincare routine."

Amorepacific's Research Direction

Amorepacific is researching the potential of Collagen from multiple angles. Among the many components that make up the skin, Collagen is like a pillar that keeps the skin firm and elastic. Compound K, developed by Amorepacific, supports skin conditions associated with collagen. [11]

It conducts comprehensive research on skin biology, delivery technology, and formulation stability, while considering the ethical sourcing of raw materials, environmental impact, and long-term skin health from the perspective of sustainable beauty.


Products utilizing Collagen-related technology can be found in Amorepacific's LANEIGE.

Explore Amorepacific Research & Innovation

Collagen Fact Check

We examine information about Collagen that is frequently misunderstood or exaggerated to gain a more balanced understanding of its characteristics as a cosmetic ingredient.

QuestionFact Check
Does Collagen guarantee skin regeneration?
Existing research has not provided sufficiently robust evidence for collagen supplements, and more epidemiological and interventional studies with large samples and adequate follow-up are needed. [2] Rather than "guaranteeing" regeneration, it can help improve skin condition.
Can using Collagen cosmetics produce the effects of a procedure?
Collagen fillers belong to the oldest group of tissue fillers administered by injection, which is a different category from topical products. [1] Cosmetics and procedures work in different ways, so it is difficult to expect the same effects.
Is Collagen suitable for all skin types?
Collagen is a cosmetic active ingredient that is generally very well tolerated due to its high biocompatibility. However, some individuals may be allergic to Collagen. [13] Caution is needed if you are allergic to specific raw materials.
Do I see immediate effects when I apply Collagen?
After 90 days, skin elasticity and viscoelasticity increased significantly. [3] Cumulative results through consistent use are more realistic than immediate changes.
Is a higher concentration of Collagen always better?
The effect of topical collagen depends not only on its content but also on molecular weight, whether it is hydrolyzed, formulation stability, skin delivery potential, and feel of use. In an animal-based Collagen cream study as well, among the 2%, 2.5%, and 3% formulations, the 2.5% formulation showed the best histological results, making it difficult to generalize that a higher concentration is always superior. [20][22] Appropriate concentration and formula design are more important.
Is Collagen extracted from only one source?
Hydrolyzed collagen can be extracted from various raw materials such as cattle and pig skin, marine organisms, chicken skin, and fish cartilage. [24][8] With advances in synthetic biology technology, the production of recombinant collagen has also become possible. [10]

How to Experience Collagen Benefits

  • Realistic Changes to Expect

With consistent use of Collagen cosmetics, you may experience an improved sense of hydration at the skin's surface and reduced tightness caused by dryness. As the skin texture becomes smoother, makeup adhesion improves, and over time, the skin may feel firmer. As the skin barrier stabilizes, you may also experience relief from sensitivity to external stimuli. [3] These changes appear gradually and cumulatively rather than dramatically.

  • Changes That Are Difficult to Expect

It is difficult to expect cosmetics alone to increase the amount of collagen in the dermal layer itself or to completely smooth out deep wrinkles. Lifting sagging skin or changing facial contours is also beyond the scope of cosmetics. For these purposes, professional procedures or a medical approach are more suitable, and it is realistic to view cosmetics as playing a supplementary role in everyday skin condition management. [1]

Safety of Collagen

Collagen is generally used safely as a cosmetic ingredient. [9] However, as with all cosmetic ingredients, individual reactions may vary, so please refer to the following.

General Safety

Collagen is widely used in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, medical, and food industries due to its high biocompatibility, non-toxicity, and biodegradability. [9] The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Panel previously reviewed hydrolyzed collagen ingredients and concluded that they are safe for cosmetic use; this report was published in 1985, and the conclusion was reaffirmed in a 2006 re-review. [13]

The collagen currently commonly used in the medical aesthetics field is mainly human or animal collagen obtained after high-purity purification and removal of allergenicity, as well as recombinant human collagen obtained through genetic engineering technology. These types of collagen have good biocompatibility, low immunogenicity, strong hydrophilicity, and good absorbability and degradability. [10]

When Caution is Needed

People who are allergic to shellfish or fish are advised to avoid applying marine collagen to the skin. [19] Although the triple-helix domains of bovine and porcine collagen are structurally very similar to human collagen, the telopeptide regions can trigger an immune response. A greater concern regarding xenogeneic raw materials is the transmission of prion-related infectious agents. [10]

Consultation with a specialist is recommended if you have existing skin concerns, and it is advisable to check your individual reaction through a patch test before using a new product.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What exactly is Collagen?

Collagen is a family of fibrillar proteins that dominate the extracellular matrix of mammalian connective tissue, and is the fundamental protein responsible for the structure and biochemical properties of connective tissue. In the case of skin, it accounts for about 70% of the dry weight. Collagen is a natural polymer that makes up one-third of the total protein mass in the human body and mainly perform a structural function. [1] In cosmetics, it is mainly used for the purposes of moisturizing, improving skin texture, and supporting firmness. [1]

What should sensitive skin keep in mind when using Collagen products?

Collagen is a cosmetic active ingredient with high biocompatibility. [9] Co-formulated fragrances, preservatives, alcohol, and similar ingredients, rather than collagen itself, can be the cause of irritation. [14] Checking the full ingredient list and performing a patch test are important, and if you are allergic to specific animal-derived raw materials, it is advisable to check the origin of the ingredient.

What ingredients are good to use together with Collagen?

Vitamin C plays a role in normal collagen synthesis. [12][27] When used with hyaluronic acid, the moisturizing power is strengthened, and niacinamide has been studied for supporting skin barrier function and maintaining healthy skin appearance. [26] Peptides, ceramide, and panthenol are also good combinations.

Can I use Collagen and retinol together?

They can be used together. Retinol is known to promote skin turnover and support collagen synthesis, so using it with collagen can offer synergy. [15] However, since irritation may occur in the early stages of retinol use, it is advisable to alternate their use or adjust the concentration until the skin adapts. [15]

Can I use Collagen together with exfoliating ingredients (AHA/BHA)?

They can be used together, but using them at the same time can be irritating. After using AHA/BHA, the skin barrier may become temporarily sensitive, so it is advisable to use them at different times or on separate days. [16] After exfoliation, a Collagen product can help support moisturizing and soothing.

Can I use Collagen products right after a procedure?

It depends on the type and intensity of the procedure and skin condition. After laser or peeling procedures, the skin is in a very sensitive state, so the guidance of the medical professional who performed the procedure takes top priority. [1] In general, low-irritation products are recommended during the post-procedure recovery period, and it is advisable to consult a specialist about when to use Collagen products.

Do pores shrink when I use Collagen cosmetics?

Pore size is determined by a combination of factors such as genetics, sebum secretion, and skin elasticity. [17] When the sense of skin firmness improves through the use of Collagen cosmetics, you may experience pores feeling "less prominent," but it is difficult to expect the pores themselves to shrink permanently with cosmetics alone.

When can I expect to feel the effects of Collagen?

In participants who ingested hydrolyzed collagen, improvements in skin moisturizing, skin elasticity, and wrinkle depth were measured after 28 days. [7] In the case of topical products, sensations such as a sense of hydration can be felt relatively quickly, but firmness or improvement in skin texture is felt cumulatively through consistent use. The changes felt may vary depending on individual skin condition and environment.

What are the differences between Collagen and similar ingredients?

Collagen in its natural form has low water solubility due to its high molecular weight (about 300 kDa). [3] In contrast, hydrolyzed collagen is composed of small, short peptides with a molecular weight of less than 3 kDa and dissolves easily in water. [6] Collagen peptides, low molecular weight collagen, marine collagen, and the like are variations based on raw material origin or molecular weight, each with different penetration ability and functional characteristics. [1]

By what criteria should I choose Collagen cosmetics?

If you have sensitive skin, it is advisable to check the full ingredient list and choose products with fewer irritating ingredients. Products containing hydrolyzed collagen (molecular weight less than 3 kDa) are advantageous in terms of skin penetration. [6] If your goal is enhanced moisturizing, you may consider products co-formulated with hyaluronic acid, and if your goal is firmness care, products that also contain peptides or Vitamin C. Brand credibility and formulation preference are also selection criteria.

Sources

※ The effects and technologies of ingredients described in this content are based on Amorepacific's own research and publicly available academic and scientific sources to provide a general understanding of cosmetic ingredients. It is not intended for medical diagnosis or treatment purposes. For personal medical concerns, please consult a qualified medical professional.