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Have you ever felt your T-zone getting shiny with pores looking more noticeable, or your makeup flaking as dead skin cells and sebum seem to pile up together? For skin with active sebum production, the keywords that naturally come to mind are "pore care," "sebum absorption," and "texture refinement," and the mineral ingredient that has been steadily researched to address these three concerns at once is Volcanic Ash. It is a porous mineral formed when lava and minerals erupted by volcanic activity cool and harden, and it is used in cosmetics in various forms such as bentonite, kaolin, zeolite, and scoria (volcanic scoria). [1][7]

While the sebum-absorption and impurity-removal aspects of Volcanic Ash have long been addressed in dermatological research, how it works in cosmetics may differ from its application in medical research. For those who are concerned about pores and sebum, whose skin feels congested from environmental impurities, or who wish to choose cosmetics based on mineral raw ingredients, we introduce Volcanic Ash from the perspective of a cosmetic ingredient.

Volcanic Ash at a Glance

CategoryKey SummaryCheck Point
Ingredient Name
Volcanic Ash
Appears on product labels as Bentonite, Kaolin, Zeolite, Volcanic Ash, Scoria, and similar [4][5]
Ingredient Classification
Volcanic-origin aluminosilicate mineral
A porous mineral centered on silica (SiO₂), alumina (Al₂O₃), and iron oxide (Fe₂O₃) [1][2]
Source
Refined from lava and pyroclastic materials that cooled and hardened after volcanic activity
Refined to cosmetic grade through crushing, washing, and sieving processes after mining [7]
Expected Skin Benefits
Sebum absorption, relief of pore congestion, texture refinement, support for impurity removal, a smooth surface feel
Gradual perception through consistent use rather than immediate change
Functions in Research
Reduction of excess sebum and comedones, improvement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), improvement of skin uniformity [1]
Based on research; results vary by individual
Suitable Skin Types
Skin with high sebum production, skin with noticeable pores, skin frequently exposed to environmental impurities
Dry and sensitive skin is recommended to use it together with moisturizing ingredients
Precautions
Possible irritation around the eyes or upon inhalation; caution when using powder formulations [4][5]
If you have a history of allergies, check the full ingredient list; a patch test is recommended for first use

What is Volcanic Ash?

Volcanic Ash is a natural aluminosilicate formed when fine mineral particles discharged during a volcanic eruption cool and solidify. It is made up of various minerals such as silica (SiO₂), alumina (Al₂O₃), and iron oxide (Fe₂O₃). [1][2] Volcanic ash processed as a cosmetic ingredient is called by various names depending on its crystal structure and mineral content. These include bentonite (a colloidal clay containing montmorillonite), kaolin (a hydrated aluminum silicate), zeolite (an aluminum-silicon oxide crystal structure), and volcanic scoria (a porous pyroclastic rock). [4][5][6][7] The large specific surface area and porosity of the particles, along with the ionic charge of their surface, are the key to the adsorptive property that attracts sebum and impurities. [1][2]

Volcanic-origin clay has been used since ancient times for cleansing and topical purposes, and as mineralogical analysis began in earnest in the 20th century, its potential as a cosmetic raw ingredient started to be established. Kaolin began in the ceramics industry and expanded into the cosmetics and OTC (Over-the-Counter) quasi-drug fields, and bentonite took its name from clay that formed when volcanic ash in the Wyoming and Yellowstone regions of the United States was altered. [2][4] In Korea, volcanic scoria, a porous pyroclastic rock from Jeju Island, has been drawing attention as a pore- and sebum-care raw ingredient. Over the past decade, clinical research on clay masks has accumulated, and quantitative data on sebum, comedones, and texture refinement have been reported. [1]

Differences Between Volcanic Ash and Similar Ingredients

When comparing the volcanic-origin mineral raw ingredients frequently seen together on a cosmetic ingredient list, they are as follows.

Ingredient NameCharacteristicsMolecular Structure/Form
Bentonite
Colloidal clay with montmorillonite as its main component; strong adsorption relative to its own weight [2][4]
Swelling-type layered silicate, negatively charged surface
Kaolin
Low irritation with light adsorption, polishing, and opacifying functions [5][7]
Non-swelling-type layered silicate, white powder
Zeolite
Micropores within a crystal lattice; assists adsorption of heavy metals and volatile organic compounds [6]
Three-dimensional microporous crystal structure
Volcanic Scoria (Scoria)
Porous pyroclastic rock from volcanic regions such as Jeju; mildly alkaline (pH approx. 7.2–7.8) and rich in minerals [9]
Porous volcanic rock in reddish-brown, yellowish-brown, black, and gray

All Volcanic Ash-family ingredients share the common feature of adsorbing sebum and impurities through porosity and surface charge, but because their crystal structures, particle sizes, and pH differ, the feel and intensity of use within a formulation vary. [1][2]

Benefits of Volcanic Ash

When discussing Volcanic Ash in cosmetics, the key point is "sebum and impurity adsorption and a sense of texture refinement through a porous mineral." Based on the research accumulated in the medical field, the benefits you can expect from cosmetics are summarized as follows.

1. Excess Sebum Adsorption and Relief of Pore Congestion

When sebum builds up thickly around the T-zone, pores can look more noticeable, and the skin surface can feel heavy. Volcanic Ash-family porous minerals contribute to refining the surface environment of pores by attracting and holding sebum and impurities through their large specific surface area and surface ionic charge. [1][2] In a 4-week clinical study of a clay mask, a meaningful reduction in skin oiliness was reported immediately after use, with improvement maintained at week 4, and comedone counts and skin uniformity measurements also improved together. [1] However, the effect experienced through cosmetics is gradual and may vary depending on the amount of sebum production and environmental factors.

2. Support for Adsorption of Environmental Impurities and Fine Particles

In urban environments, external particles such as fine dust accumulate on the skin surface, which can make skin tone look dull or lead to a congested feeling. Porous minerals such as zeolite have been reported to bind heavy metals such as cadmium, lead, and nickel, as well as volatile organic compounds, through the micropores within their crystal lattice and their ion-exchange capacity. [6] Bentonite is also known to adsorb negatively charged impurities through its polycationic surface structure. [2] In cosmetics, this adsorptive property can be utilized to wipe away impurities on the skin surface and refine texture.

3. Skin Texture Refinement and a Smooth Surface Feel

When dull, flaky dead skin cells build up, makeup does not apply well, and the surface can feel rough. Kaolin is classified as playing a role in removing dirt from the skin surface and refining texture through its gentle polishing and absorbing functions [5], and in a clinical study using a clay mask, skin uniformity indicators were reported to have improved with statistical significance at week 4. [1] However, it is necessary to also consider that the perceived effect is primarily about refining surface texture rather than structural change down to the dermis.

4. Support for Balancing Barrier Condition

There is a perception that products focused on sebum care can inadvertently dry out the skin, but recent research showed a trend in which an appropriately designed clay mask increased stratum corneum moisture after use and lowered transepidermal water loss (TEWL, Transepidermal Water Loss). [1] This can be interpreted as being because surface impurities are refined, creating an environment in which moisturizing ingredients can absorb more effectively. However, using only a strongly adsorptive formulation on its own may cause a feeling of dryness, so a balance of using it together with moisturizing ingredients is important.

5. Combination with Other Ingredients

Volcanic Ash-family minerals can offer synergy when used together with various active ingredients. When used with hyaluronic acid or glycerin, moisture replenishment after sebum care is complemented, and when combined with niacinamide, sebum and pore appearance care is supported from multiple angles. A combination with salicylic acid (BHA) can help refine impurities within pores, and a combination with ceramide can contribute to barrier recovery after sebum care. When used together with retinol, it is advisable to apply it step by step while observing the skin's condition.

Amorepacific's Perspective on Volcanic Ash

Skin changes into a different state every day depending on the environment, season, and condition. Rather than presenting a mineral raw ingredient such as Volcanic Ash as a single right answer, Amorepacific has precisely analyzed raw ingredients that nature has created over the passage of time and researched them so that they can work safely and comfortably on the skin. In particular, Jeju's volcanic scoria is one pillar of INNISFREE's heritage, and research continues in a direction that respects local nature while adding scientific evidence. [9]

Scientific Understanding of Volcanic Ash Mechanism of Action

Amorepacific researchers focus on the mechanism of action of Volcanic Ash to explore its potential in cosmetics. The main pathways of action mentioned in the research literature are as follows.

Sebum and Impurity Adsorption Through Porous Specific Surface Area

Volcanic Ash-family minerals contribute to binding and wiping away sebum and impurities on the surface based on their large specific surface area and porosity. [1][2] Volcanic scoria is mildly alkaline (pH approx. 7.2–7.8) and has mineral components bound within its porous structure, so it is used as an adsorption-support raw ingredient. [9]

Surface Ionic Charge and Ion-Exchange Action

Bentonite has a negatively charged surface that binds positively charged impurities, and zeolite has been reported to absorb heavy metals and volatile organic compounds through the ion-exchange capacity within its crystal lattice. [2][6] These surface chemical characteristics connect naturally with a care direction that responds to fine particles that accumulate in urban environments.

Amorepacific's Volcanic Ash Research

Amorepacific has conducted a variety of research to utilize Jeju volcanic scoria as a cosmetic raw ingredient. To keep the coarse crystal particles from touching the skin directly while preserving the adsorptive property, it developed a composite powder technology that evenly holds volcanic scoria particles within porous polymer spheres, and registered it as a U.S. patent (US 2019/0040224 A1). [9] The significance of this technology lies in the fact that it does not stop at simply blending Jeju volcanic scoria, but also improves the coarse feel upon skin application, formulation stability, and spreadability while maintaining and strengthening the raw ingredient's adsorptive function. Therefore, Amorepacific's volcanic scoria research can be interpreted as material-platform research that converts natural porous mineral raw ingredients into a functional composite powder suitable for cosmetic formulations. INNISFREE has kept Jeju volcanic scoria as one pillar of its heritage raw materials and has operated a pore-care line; its mousse clay mask and similar products contain as much as 6,020 mg of Jeju volcanic scoria, which is utilized for sebum and impurity adsorption. [10]

Realistic Application in Cosmetics

When applying this scientific background to cosmetics, several practical considerations are necessary.

The related research was mainly conducted in the contexts of adsorption experiments on the particles themselves or clinical-trial settings, but cosmetics work primarily at the skin's surface and the stratum corneum. Because the adsorptive power of Volcanic Ash varies greatly in perception depending on particle size, porosity, dispersion stability, and the balance of the moisturizing and soothing ingredients that are formulated together, it is advisable to approach an ingredient not as an "all-purpose solution" but as "one part of a skincare routine." [3][9] In addition, safety guidelines also recommend that powder formulations be designed to minimize inhalation irritation. [4][5]

Amorepacific's Research Direction

Amorepacific is researching the potential of Volcanic Ash from multiple angles. While responsibly utilizing the natural resources of the Jeju region, it comprehensively researches delivery technology and formulation stability, including particle refinement and composite powder technology, and approaches from the perspective of sustainable beauty that considers the ethical sourcing of raw ingredients, environmental impact, and long-term skin health.

Products utilizing Volcanic Ash-related technology can be found in Amorepacific's INNISFREE. You can learn more about Amorepacific's research and development philosophy and technology trends at the link below.

INNISFREE Volcanic Ash for Skin: What It Is, Benefits, and How It Works benefits INNISFREE Volcanic Ash for Skin: What It Is, Benefits, and How It Works benefits
Explore Amorepacific Research & Innovation

Volcanic Ash Fact Check

We examine information about Volcanic Ash that is frequently misunderstood or exaggerated to gain a more balanced understanding of its characteristics as a cosmetic ingredient.

QuestionFact Check
Does Volcanic Ash guarantee skin regeneration?
Volcanic Ash contributes to adsorbing surface sebum and impurities and refining texture, but it is difficult to "guarantee" skin regeneration through cosmetic use alone. The perceived effect is gradual and varies by individual. [1][2]
Can using Volcanic Ash cosmetics produce the effects of a procedure?
Volcanic Ash works at the skin's surface and the stratum corneum, and it differs from medical procedures in the depth and mechanism of action. It is difficult to expect effects equivalent to a procedure from cosmetics. [3]
Is Volcanic Ash suitable for all skin types?
It suits oily skin well, but dry and sensitive skin is recommended to use it together with moisturizing ingredients. In the CIR assessment, kaolin and bentonite were reported to be safe under the conditions of cosmetic use. [4][5]
Do I see immediate effects when I apply Volcanic Ash?
In clinical studies of clay masks, a trend of temporarily reduced skin oiliness was observed immediately after use, but texture refinement and changes in pore appearance were experienced with consistent use over about 4 weeks. [1]
Is a higher concentration of Volcanic Ash always better?
More important than concentration are particle size, dispersion stability, and balance with moisturizing ingredients. Appropriate formulation design determines the perceived effect. [3]
Is Volcanic Ash extracted from only one place?
Volcanic Ash is produced in volcanic regions around the world, and in Korea, Jeju volcanic scoria is representative. [9] In cosmetics, it is utilized in various forms such as bentonite, kaolin, zeolite, and scoria. [4][5][6]

How to Experience Volcanic Ash Benefits

  • Realistic Changes to Expect

When using cosmetics with Volcanic Ash ingredients, you may notice a lighter feel to a surface weighed down by sebum, relief of a congested pore appearance, a smooth sense of refined texture, less makeup flaking, and relief of the congested feeling after exposure to environmental impurities. These changes appear gradually and cumulatively rather than dramatically, and consistent use is important.

  • Changes That Are Difficult to Expect

It is difficult to expect permanent pore-size reduction, changes to the structure of the dermis, or effects equivalent to a medical procedure from cosmetics alone. If pore appearance is a deep concern, consulting a specialist is recommended, and if additional care is needed, you may consider a combination with complementary ingredients such as BHA (salicylic acid) and niacinamide.

Safety of Volcanic Ash

Volcanic Ash-family ingredients are generally used safely as cosmetic raw ingredients. However, as with all cosmetic ingredients, individual reactions may vary, so please refer to the following.

General Safety

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) reviewed silicate-family minerals, including bentonite and kaolin, and assessed that they generally cause little skin irritation at current usage practices and concentrations, and kaolin is also classified as a skin-protectant ingredient in the U.S. OTC (over-the-counter quasi-drug) field. [4][5] The European cosmetic ingredient database (COSMILE Europe) classifies bentonite as an absorbent, viscosity controller, and emulsion stabilizer, and kaolin as an absorbent, abrasive, anti-caking agent, and opacifier. [11][12] In the Korea Cosmetic Association (KCIA) ingredient dictionary as well, clay-family ingredients such as kaolin are organized as mineral ingredients composed of silicon, oxygen, and metal elements bound together, and assessments of their cosmetic use safety are provided alongside. [13]

When Caution is Needed

In the CIR review, it was reported that fine powder minerals such as kaolin and bentonite can be irritating if they get into the eyes, and that there is a possibility of respiratory irritation when inhaled in powder form, so spray and aerosol formulations should be designed to minimize inhalation exposure. [4][5] If you have a history of allergies or your skin is very dry, it is advisable to check the full ingredient list and perform a patch test for first use. If you have existing skin concerns, consultation with a specialist is recommended.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What exactly is Volcanic Ash?

Volcanic Ash is a natural aluminosilicate mineral formed from volcanic ejecta, a porous mineral composed of silica, alumina, iron oxide, and related minerals. In cosmetics, it is utilized in refined and classified forms such as bentonite, kaolin, zeolite, and volcanic scoria, and it is used for pore and sebum care due to its property of adsorbing sebum and impurities through its large specific surface area and surface charge. [1][2][7]

What should sensitive skin keep in mind when using Volcanic Ash products?

Volcanic Ash itself is assessed as relatively low in irritation, but co-formulated alcohol, fragrance, strong surfactants, and similar ingredients can be variables in sensitive reactions. Clay formulations with strong adsorptive power can be accompanied by a feeling of dryness, so for sensitive skin, it is advisable to choose a product that also contains moisturizing ingredients and to perform a patch test. [4][5]

What ingredients are good to use together with Volcanic Ash?

Volcanic Ash ingredients can help adsorb sebum and impurities, so using them together with moisturizing, barrier, and soothing ingredients makes for a more balanced formulation. Hyaluronic acid and glycerin complement the hydration that can become insufficient after sebum care, and niacinamide is used as an ingredient that cares for sebum and pore appearance from multiple angles. Salicylic acid can help refine dead skin cells and sebum around pores, and ceramide and panthenol are good to design together as barrier-care and skin-soothing support ingredients.

Can I use Volcanic Ash and retinol together?

They can be used together. However, both ingredients can affect the skin's surface condition, and topical retinoids have been reported to be accompanied by skin irritation. [14] If used at the same time, irritation may be felt, so it is good to first separate them by day or apply them with a time interval while observing the skin's condition and gradually getting accustomed to them.

Can I use Volcanic Ash together with exfoliating ingredients (AHA/BHA)?

They can be used together, but in sensitive skin, irritation and stinging from AHA products have been reported, and the skin barrier may become temporarily sensitive after use. [15] If you feel irritation, consider separating them by day, or adjusting the frequency of Volcanic Ash-containing products after exfoliation while adding sufficient moisturizing care.

Can I use Volcanic Ash products right after a procedure?

It depends on the type and intensity of the procedure and the individual skin condition. An adsorptive clay formulation can be a burden on skin that has become sensitive immediately after a procedure, so following the guidance of the medical professional who performed the procedure takes top priority. [3]

Do pores shrink when I use Volcanic Ash cosmetics?

Pore size is determined by a combination of factors such as genetics, the amount of sebum secretion, and skin elasticity. When sebum and impurities are refined and texture becomes smooth through the use of Volcanic Ash, pores may feel "less prominent," but it is difficult to expect permanent pore reduction. [1]

When can I expect to feel the effects of Volcanic Ash?

In a 4-week clinical study of a clay mask, a reduction in skin oiliness began to be measured right after use, and comedone counts and skin uniformity showed marked improvement at week 4. [1] A smooth surface feel and a light sensation of use can be felt relatively quickly, but changes in pore appearance and texture are felt cumulatively through consistent use.

What are the differences between Volcanic Ash and similar ingredients?

Bentonite has strong adsorption relative to its own weight, making it suitable for oily skin, while kaolin has light adsorption, making it highly usable even on sensitive skin. [2][5] Zeolite has a strength in supporting adsorption of heavy metals and volatile organic compounds through the micropores within its crystal lattice [6], and volcanic scoria is utilized as a pore- and sebum-care raw material due to its porosity, mildly alkaline environment, and rich minerals. [9]

By what criteria should I choose Volcanic Ash cosmetics?

If you have a lot of sebum and are concerned about pore appearance, a product with a high proportion of bentonite or volcanic scoria may suit you, and if you want texture refinement and a light surface feel, a product with a high proportion of kaolin may be a suitable option. [1][5] If you are in an environment frequently exposed to environmental impurities, you may consider a formulation that also contains zeolite. [6] If you feel dryness, choose a product designed together with moisturizing ingredients, and for powder formulations, it is advisable to choose a product made to minimize inhalation exposure. [4][5]

Sources

※ The effects and technologies of ingredients described in this content are based on Amorepacific's own research and publicly available academic and scientific sources to provide a general understanding of cosmetic ingredients. It is not intended for medical diagnosis or treatment purposes. For personal medical concerns, please consult a qualified medical professional.