KR EN
AMOREPACIFIC STORIES AMORE MALL Search

Have you ever felt your skin becoming dry and its texture turning rough from UV rays and fine dust, your complexion looking dull as environmental stress accumulates, or wished to calmly soothe your skin in moments when its condition feels unsettled? If these are your concerns, "hydrating and soothing care," "antioxidant care against environmental stress," and "texture refinement" come to mind. The plant-based ingredient that effectively brings all three together is Rose (Rose Extract). Rose flowers (Rosa Damascena Flower, Rosa Centifolia Flower) are rich in polyphenols and flavonoids along with citronellol and geraniol, making them a heritage botanical ingredient with a long history of use in cosmetics. [1][2][4][19]

While Rose is a familiar material in fragrance and culinary culture, the results from pharmacological and food research may differ from the effects experienced through cosmetics. For those concerned about environmental stress and dryness, those bothered by rough texture and dullness, or those who wish to choose cosmetics based on ingredients, we explore Rose from the perspective of a cosmetic ingredient and introduce how it can be incorporated into your skincare routine.

Rose at a Glance

CategoryKey SummaryCheck Point
Ingredient Name
Rose (Rosa Damascena Flower Extract)
Labeled in various ways depending on the species, such as Rosa Damascena Flower Oil/Water, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract [7][8]
Ingredient Classification
Plant-derived extract / polyphenol·flavonoid + monoterpene alcohol family
Derived from the petals of Rosaceae plants, classified for skin conditioning, fragrance, and antioxidant functions [6][7]
Source
Extracted from the petals of edible and fragrance Roses such as Damask Rose and Centifolia Rose
Essential oil, floral water, and extracts are separated through steam distillation, solvent extraction, super high pressure (SHP) extraction, and similar methods [1][9]
Expected Skin Benefits
Surface hydration, condition refinement after environmental stress, smooth texture, a fresh radiant impression, a calming feel
Gradual perception through consistent use rather than immediate change
Functions in Research
Free radical scavenging, regulation of melanin synthesis signaling, support for inhibiting collagen- and hyaluronic-acid-degrading enzymes, surface soothing [3][4][5][19]
Based on clinical research; cosmetic perception varies by individual
Suitable Skin Types
Skin unsettled by environmental stress, dry and rough-textured skin, skin bothered by dullness, skin that prefers a calming feel
Consultation with a specialist is recommended for specific skin concerns
Precautions
Rose-derived fragrance components such as citronellol, geraniol, linalool, and limonene may trigger allergic reactions [6][7]
Check the full ingredient list; a patch test is recommended for first use

What is Rose?

Rose refers to the flower of plants in the genus Rosa within the Rosaceae family, and on cosmetic ingredient lists it typically appears as Damask rose (Rosa Damascena Flower Extract) or Centifolia rose (Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract). Rose petals are reported to contain more than 200 kinds of active substances, including monoterpene alcohol fragrance components such as citronellol, geraniol, and nerol, along with flavonoids such as quercetin, kaempferol, and rutin, phenolic acids such as gallic acid, caffeic acid, and chlorogenic acid, anthocyanins, and even vitamin C. [1][2][4][19] In cosmetics, the petals are steam-distilled to obtain essential oil and rose water, or the active components are stabilized through solvent and super high pressure processes to be used in the form of extracts. [1][9]

Roses have a recorded history of use in aromatic oils and medicine since ancient Persia and Mesopotamia, and Bulgaria's "Valley of Roses" in Kazanlak and Kashan in Iran remain well known today as major sources of Damask rose. [1][2] In the cosmetics field, rose essential oil and rose water are classic raw ingredients for fragrances and toners. Since the 2000s, the anti-tyrosinase activity of citronellol and geraniol, the antioxidant and collagen-protective action of polyphenols, and the anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase activity of Centifolia extract have been recognized one after another, bringing renewed attention to Rose as a skin aging-related and environmental stress care ingredient. [3][4][5][19] In Korea as well, various brands, including Mamonde, have interpreted Rose as a heritage ingredient, expanding into the toner, ampoule, and mask categories. [9][10]

Differences Between Rose and Similar Ingredients

The "rose" that appears on cosmetic ingredient lists is divided into several forms depending on the extraction part, species, and processing method, and essential oil, extracts, and floral water are often confused with one another. Understanding the differences between each ingredient is helpful when reviewing a product's ingredient list.

Ingredient NameFull NameCharacteristicsKey Active Substances
Damask Rose Flower Extract
Rosa Damascena Flower Extract
A solvent or super high-pressure extract of Damask rose petals, containing polyphenols and flavonoids along with fragrance components [1][2]
Citronellol, geraniol, quercetin, kaempferol, gallic acid [1][4][19]
Damask Rose Essential Oil
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
A volatile essential oil obtained through steam distillation, the form on which fragrance and anti-tyrosinase activity research is concentrated [3]
Citronellol (20–45%), geraniol (15–28%) [3][4][19]
Damask Rose Water
Rosa Damascena Flower Water
An aromatic aqueous solution separated during essential oil extraction, used in the toner and mist categories [1]
Phenylethyl alcohol, trace monoterpene alcohols [1]
Centifolia Rose Flower Extract
Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract
An extract of Centifolia petals, also called cabbage rose, the form for which anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase research has been reported [5][8]
Isoquercitrin, quercitrin, euscaphic acid [5]

Even though rose-derived ingredients come from the same flower, their fragrance and active component profiles and their texture in cosmetics differ depending on the species (Damascena/Centifolia) and extraction method (distillation/solvent/SHP), so it is helpful to review essential oil, extracts, and floral water separately. [1][3][5]

Benefits of Rose

When discussing Rose in cosmetics, the key point is "environmental stress care and surface condition refinement through plant polyphenols and fragrance components." Based on the research accumulated in the pharmacological and food fields, the benefits you may notice from cosmetics can be summarized as follows.

1. Antioxidant and Environmental Stress Care

External stressors such as UV rays, fine dust, and exhaust fumes can increase reactive oxygen species (ROS) and destabilize the skin condition. The polyphenols and flavonoids in Damask rose petals showed antioxidant activity in experimental models, including DPPH radical scavenging assays [1][4][19], and polyphenols such as quercetin, kaempferol, and gallic acid have been reported to help relieve oxidative stress. [2][4][19] Based on these results, in cosmetics, Rose is used as an antioxidant plant ingredient that supports the condition refinement of skin frequently exposed to environmental stress, and the perceived effect is gradual and may vary depending on individual skin condition and environment.

2. Support for Skin Tone Refinement

When UV exposure accumulates, pigment can be deposited unevenly, making the skin look dull. Damask rose essential oil has been reported to show tyrosinase-inhibitory activity in experimental models. [3] In B16F10 melanocyte experiments, intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content decreased in a concentration-dependent manner at concentrations of 25–100 μg/mL [3], and geraniol, a major component of the essential oil, is itself known to have tyrosinase-inhibitory activity. [3] In cosmetics, it is realistic to approach this as cumulative tone refinement rather than the complete removal of deep pigmentation.

3. Support for Texture Refinement and Firmness -Related Care

When surface roughness and fine lines become a concern, the accumulated activity of enzymes that break down collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid can affect texture and firmness. Research on Centifolia rose stem extract reported anti-hyaluronidase and anti-elastase activity along with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory potential [5], and isoquercitrin, quercitrin, and euscaphic acid were identified as active components. [5] Damask rose extract has also shown a trend of lowering elastase and hyaluronidase activity in in vitro evaluations. [4][19] Since the action in cosmetics is centered on the surface and stratum corneum, it is appropriate to approach it as one part of environmental-protection care and texture-refinement support, rather than results equivalent to a medical procedure.

4. Support for Surface Hydration and Soothing Condition

When exposed to a dry and harsh environment, the skin easily feels tight, and its texture becomes disrupted. Damask rose water and extract contain phenylethyl alcohol and polyols along with polyphenols and flavonoids, so they are used to support a sense of surface hydration [1][7], and Mamonde uses 90.97% Damask rose extract combined with hyaluronic acid and allantoin to emphasize hydration and a calming feel. [9] In addition, rose essential oil and extract have been reported to show anti-inflammatory functions in in vitro models [1][2], potentially helping to refine surface conditions destabilized by environmental stress. However, since the action in cosmetics is centered on the surface and stratum corneum, deep dermal changes or medical recovery are difficult to expect.

5. Combination with Other Ingredients

Rose flower extract can offer synergistic effects when used together with various active ingredients. Used with vitamins C and E, it enables comprehensive environmental stress care [1][4][19], and combined with hyaluronic acid and panthenol, it can strengthen a sense of surface hydration and a calming skin texture. [9] Used together with niacinamide, the rose extract pairs gently in terms of texture and tone refinement, and combined with peptides and ceramides, the ingredient can help stabilize the condition after environmental stress. When used alongside active ingredients such as retinol and AHA, the antioxidant and soothing support of rose extract can be helpful, but if the proportion of fragrance and alcohol in the formulation is high, it may lead to irritation depending on skin condition, so checking the full ingredient list is helpful.

Amorepacific's Perspective on Rose

Skin changes every day amid different environments and conditions. Rather than presenting a particular ingredient as the "right answer," Amorepacific has explored ways to flexibly select and use ingredients according to each individual's skin condition and goals. Among these, Rose is a heritage flower ingredient that has been researched over a long period, centered on Mamonde, and is a central pillar of the Hyper Flora solution, which advocates "the combination of efficacy ingredients found in flowers with boosting ingredients." [10]

Scientific Understanding of Rose Mechanism of Action

Published research has explored multiple biological mechanisms of rose-derived ingredients, and Amorepacific considers these findings when evaluating cosmetic applications and formulation design. The main pathways of action of Rose mentioned in the research can be summarized as follows.

Polyphenol- and flavonoid-based antioxidant pathway

The flavonoids such as quercetin, kaempferol, and rutin in Damask rose petals, and the phenolic acids such as gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, and caffeic acid, are reported to directly scavenge reactive oxygen species and help relieve oxidative stress. [1][2][4][19] Their free radical scavenging activity is evaluated to be at a level comparable to α-tocopherol and is treated as a meaningful pathway for refining the condition of skin unsettled by environmental stress. [1][4][19]

Monoterpene alcohol-based pigment regulation signaling pathway

Citronellol and geraniol, the major components of Damask rose essential oil, are reported to bind reversibly and in a mixed-type manner to the tyrosinase enzyme involved in melanin synthesis to lower its activity, and a mechanism has been proposed in which the essential oil itself induces changes in the secondary structure of the enzyme to reduce its activity. [3] In melanocyte experiments, intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content decreased in a concentration-dependent manner [3], and this is treated meaningfully in cosmetic research as a pathway through which naturally derived ingredients can act at the pigment regulation signaling stage.

Amorepacific's Rose Research

Amorepacific researches Rose as a representative heritage ingredient, developing it not as a simple fragrance but as a material that delivers skin confidence. In particular, focusing on the Damask rose of Bulgaria's Rose Valley, Amorepacific conducts systematic research from raw ingredient sourcing to extraction and efficacy studies. Rose is harvested only during a blooming period of about 30 days per year, and immediately after harvest, it is connected to the extraction process in a fresh state. In addition, super high pressure (SHP) extraction technology is applied and designed to minimize component loss caused by heat and to preserve the rose's natural fragrance and active component characteristics. [9][13]


This research has been developed with a focus on Amorepacific's hyper-flower beauty brand Mamonde. Amorepacific uses Rose as a core heritage raw ingredient and, paying attention to the various bioactive components contained in Damask rose, such as polyphenols and flavonoids, has continued research related to moisturizing, soothing, and skin conditioning. It has also built Hyper Flora™, its own research platform for delivering flower-derived efficacy ingredients to the skin more effectively, continuously expanding the scope of rose material applications. [10][14]


Recently, Amorepacific's research on rose has expanded beyond the stage of using plant extracts to the development of next-generation functional materials such as Rose Peptide. Amorepacific applies Rose Peptide, developed by researching rose-derived protein, to skin anti-aging research, and in particular, paying attention to skin aging accelerated by external heat, is conducting related efficacy research. This research is contributing to the development of technologies supporting skin vitality, antioxidant care, and skin-condition support. It is also expanding into addressing visible signs of heat-induced skin damage and aging, continuously broadening the potential application of rose-derived bioactive components. In addition, Amorepacific continues to file patents for skin-improvement compositions and functional materials using rose-derived peptides and active components, accumulating scientific evidence. [15][16][17][18]


In this way, Amorepacific's rose research continues to evolve, starting from raw ingredient sourcing and extraction technology research and progressing to the analysis of flower-derived active components, the development of Rose Peptide-based anti-aging materials, research on skin aging accelerated by heat, and research on skin application technology.

Realistic Application in Cosmetics

When applying this scientific background to cosmetics, several practical considerations are necessary.

The related research has been conducted mainly in various fields, such as in vitro assays and high-concentration essential oil evaluations, whereas in cosmetics the action is centered on the skin surface and the stratum corneum. [1][3] In addition, rose essential oil and extract naturally contain fragrance allergens such as citronellol, geraniol, linalool, and limonene [6][7], so conditions that minimize skin irritation, along with stabilization and delivery technology, must be considered together at the development stage for a balanced perceived effect. It is desirable to approach Rose not as an "all-purpose" ingredient but as "one part of a routine," reviewing directions suited to purposes such as antioxidant care, surface hydration, and soothing support.

Amorepacific's Research Direction

Amorepacific is researching the potential of Rose from multiple angles. Amorepacific comprehensively examines everything from source selection and harvest-timing management to extraction processes, fragrance profile preservation, and combination with moisturizing and soothing ingredients. Based on a deep understanding of skin biology, Amorepacific approaches rose ingredient research from the perspective of sustainable beauty that considers long-term skin health.


Products utilizing rose-related technology can be found in Amorepacific's Mamonde. You can learn more about Amorepacific's research and development philosophy and technology trends at the link below.

Mamonde Rose for Skin: What It Is, Benefits, and How It Works benefits Mamonde Rose for Skin: What It Is, Benefits, and How It Works benefits
Explore Amorepacific Research & Innovation

Rose Fact Check

We examine information about Rose that is frequently misunderstood or exaggerated to gain a more balanced understanding of its characteristics as a cosmetic ingredient.

QuestionFact Check
Does Rose guarantee skin regeneration?
Although antioxidant and protective research on polyphenols has accumulated, it is difficult to "guarantee" regeneration through a single cosmetic step. The perceived effect is gradual and varies by individual. [1][4][19]
Can using Rose cosmetics produce the effects of a procedure?
Rose flower extract acts on the skin surface and stratum corneum, and its depth of action and mechanism differ from those of a medical procedure. It is difficult to expect results from cosmetics equivalent to a procedure. [1][3]
Is Rose suitable for all skin types?
The CIR Expert Panel evaluated rose-derived cosmetic ingredients as safe to use at current usage practices and concentrations when used in non-sensitizing formulations. [6]
Do effects appear immediately when I apply Rose?
A sense of surface hydration and a calming feel are experienced relatively quickly, but changes in texture, tone, and firmness are generally perceived gradually through continued use. [4][5][19]
Is a higher concentration of Rose always better?
For essential oil and extracts, not only concentration but also the content of fragrance allergens and the stabilization and delivery technology jointly determine the perceived effect and irritation level. Concentration is not an absolute criterion. [3][6]
Is Rose extracted from only one place?
Edible and fragrance roses such as Rosa damascena and Rosa centifolia are representative, and it is extracted from various parts of plants including petals and stems, yielding forms such as essential oil and floral water. [5][7][8]

How to Experience Rose Benefits

  • Realistic Changes to Expect

When using cosmetics containing rose flower extract, you may notice the gradual stabilization of a condition unsettled after environmental stress, a fresh sense of surface hydration, a smoothly refined texture, an impression of dullness cumulatively fading, and a calm and elegant feel. These changes appear gradually and cumulatively rather than dramatically, and consistent use is important.

  • Changes That Are Difficult to Expect

With cosmetics alone, it is difficult to expect the complete removal of deep pigmentation, fundamental firmness recovery down to the dermal layer, or photoaging improvement equivalent to a medical procedure. If your pigmentation concerns are significant, consulting a specialist is recommended. If you need more active antioxidant and texture-refinement care, you can consider combinations with complementary ingredients such as vitamin C, retinol, and peptides.

Safety of Rose

Rose flower extract is generally used safely as a cosmetic ingredient. However, as with all cosmetic ingredients, individual reactions may vary, so please refer to the following.

General Safety

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (CIR Expert Panel) reviewed 10 Damask rose-derived cosmetic ingredients and evaluated them as safe at current usage practices and concentrations when used in non-sensitizing formulations. [6] In the European cosmetic ingredient database (COSMILE Europe) as well, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract and Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract are listed with functions such as skin conditioning, fragrance, and antioxidant, and are presented as raw ingredients evaluated under EU regulations. [7][8] It is also reported that Damask rose-derived ingredients are used for food as well and are classified as GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) under US FDA standards. [6]

When Caution is Needed

Rose essential oil and extract naturally contain EU-designated fragrance allergens such as citronellol, geraniol, linalool, limonene, eugenol, and farnesol, and the CIR Panel noted that these components can act as variables for irritation and sensitivity reactions depending on their content. [6] In addition, COSMILE Europe presents them as ingredients that can be used safely when the conditions of use under EU Annex III are complied with. [7] Co-formulated alcohol, fragrances, and preservatives can be variables for irritation, so for first use it is helpful to apply a small amount to a narrow area and observe the reaction for about 24 hours. If you have existing skin concerns or a history of allergies, consultation with a specialist is recommended.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What exactly is Rose?

Rose (Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, etc.) is a cosmetic raw ingredient extracted from the petals of Rosaceae plants, and it contains monoterpene alcohols such as citronellol and geraniol, flavonoids such as quercetin and kaempferol, and phenolic acids such as gallic acid and caffeic acid, performing antioxidant, skin conditioning, and fragrance functions. [1][2][4][19]

What should sensitive skin keep in mind when using Rose products?

Rose extract naturally contains EU-designated fragrance allergens such as citronellol, geraniol, linalool, and limonene, so if you have a fragrance allergy, it is good to check the full ingredient list. [6] The CIR Panel recommends non-sensitizing formulation conditions, and if you have sensitive skin, a patch test before full use is recommended for first use. [6]

What ingredients are good to use together with Rose?

May provide complementary benefits when used together with ingredients such as vitamins C and E (antioxidant synergy), hyaluronic acid and allantoin (moisture and soothing reinforcement), niacinamide (texture and tone refinement), ceramide and panthenol (barrier reinforcement), and peptides (firmness support). [9]

Can I use Rose and retinol together?

They can be used within the same skincare routine depending on formulation and skin condition. [4][19] However, since skin can temporarily become more sensitive in the early stages of retinol use, it is good to review formulations with a low fragrance proportion and apply them gradually.

Can I use Rose and exfoliating ingredients (AHA/BHA) together?

They can be used together, but the skin barrier may become temporarily sensitive after AHA/BHA use. [11] If irritation is felt when using them at the same time, it can be helpful to separate the timing of use, or to refine surface condition with a rose-containing formulation after exfoliation.

Can I use Rose products right after a procedure?

It varies depending on the type and intensity of the procedure and individual skin condition. Following the guidance of the medical staff who performed the procedure is the top priority.

Do pores shrink when I use Rose cosmetics?

Pore size is determined by a combination of factors such as genetics, sebum secretion, and skin elasticity. [12] There are reports that the antioxidant and soothing action of rose extract may supplementarily contribute to an impression of refined texture [4][19], but rather than expecting permanent pore reduction, it is realistic to expect an impression of pores appearing "less prominent" through texture refinement.

When can I expect to feel the effects of Rose?

A sense of surface hydration and a calming texture are experienced relatively quickly, but changes in tone, texture, and firmness appear cumulatively and are generally perceived gradually through continued use. [4][5][19] In vitro and cell research results may not directly translate into the perceived effect in cosmetics, so it is good to evaluate based on gradual change. [3]

How do Damask rose and Centifolia rose differ?

Damask rose (Rosa damascena) is a species rich in citronellol and geraniol whose essential oil is the focus of fragrance and anti-tyrosinase research [3], while Centifolia rose (Rosa centifolia), called cabbage rose, is a species whose polyphenols such as isoquercitrin, quercitrin, and euscaphic acid have been reported along with anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase activity. [5] Both species are used in cosmetics as skin conditioning, fragrance, and antioxidant support raw ingredients. [7][8]

By what criteria should I choose Rose cosmetics?

If surface hydration and soothing support are your priority, it is helpful to review the toner and ampoule categories with a high proportion of rose water and extract. If texture and firmness support is your goal, review formulations that also contain polyphenols and peptides. And if you have sensitive or fragrance-sensitive skin, review formulations with a low content of allergens such as citronellol and geraniol and a low proportion of fragrance and alcohol. [6][9] Formulations that specify the extraction method and source information can serve as a reference for gauging the fragrance profile and stability. [9]

Does rose essential oil reach the deep layers of the skin?

Rose essential oil components are mainly lipophilic monoterpene alcohols and are known to act mainly at the surface of the stratum corneum. [3] In the cosmetics field, the action is antioxidant, fragrance, and soothing support centered on the epidermal surface and stratum corneum, and deep changes at the level of a medical procedure are difficult to expect. However, research on stabilization and delivery technology continues, so there may be differences in the perceived effect depending on the formulation. [9]

Sources

※ The effects and technologies of ingredients described in this content are based on Amorepacific's own research and publicly available academic and scientific sources to provide a general understanding of cosmetic ingredients. It is not intended for medical diagnosis or treatment purposes. For personal medical concerns, please consult a qualified medical professional.