Scientific Understanding of Green Tea Mechanism of Action
Amorepacific researchers focus on the mechanism of action of green tea leaf extract to explore its potential in cosmetics. The main pathways of action of green tea mentioned in the research literature can be summarized as follows.
Catechin (EGCG)-based antioxidant and photoprotection pathway
Green tea catechins, including EGCG, directly scavenge free radicals and increase the activity of endogenous antioxidant enzymes (SOD, GSH-Px, catalase), contributing to refining skin condition disturbed by oxidative stress. [1][2] A mechanism of inhibiting the MAPK and NF-κB signaling pathways activated upon UV exposure to lower the expression of collagen-degrading enzymes such as MMPs has also been reported, making it a pathway that draws attention in terms of photoaging support. [2]
Pigment-regulating signaling pathway
EGCG and some catechins are reported to directly inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin production, and to reduce melanin synthesis by lowering the expression of cAMP/CREB, MITF, TYRP-1, and TYRP-2 signaling. [2][6] Unlike conventional single-enzyme inhibition approaches, this is a pathway that is meaningfully addressed in cosmetic research in that it approaches pigment regulation in a multilayered way at the signal transduction stage.
Amorepacific's Green Tea Research
Since introducing the world's first green tea cosmetic, "Miro (美露)," using green tea flavonoids in 1989, Amorepacific has expanded green tea from a simple antioxidant raw ingredient into a material for skin hydration, barrier, anti-inflammation, anti-aging, regeneration, and skin homeostasis regulation. [12][13]
Starting with cultivar innovation research, Amorepacific, together with the OSULLOC farm, crossbred approximately 8,500 varieties of tea plants and, through approximately 228,000 experiments, selected cultivars with excellent catechin, theanine, and amino acid content. Through this, it secured its own superior cultivars such as Jangwon No. 2 (amino-acid-enhanced) and Jangwon No. 3 (catechin-enhanced), developing green tea into a functional plant asset centered on skin benefits. [12][13]
Subsequent research expanded beyond green tea leaves to all parts of the tea plant, including flowers, seeds, and roots. Noting that the content of active components varies depending on the harvest time and the part collected, it also advanced extraction and processing technologies to increase the content of key components such as catechins and amino acids. This research became the foundation for utilizing green-tea-derived ingredients as materials for skin antioxidant, moisturizing, and barrier-strengthening purposes. [12][13]
Representatively, Beauty Green Tea™ is a skincare-dedicated green tea raw ingredient that underwent cultivar selection and extraction optimization with a focus on skin moisturizing benefits, rather than ordinary green tea for food and beverage. Through this, green tea research expanded from an antioxidant focus to research on skincare materials that support skin moisture homeostasis and barrier improvement. [13][14]
Amorepacific expanded green tea research into the fields of fermentation and microbiome. It has conducted Green Tea Probiotics research using lactic acid bacteria derived from Jeju green tea, and recently announced research findings that exosomes derived from green tea lactic acid bacteria show skin anti-inflammatory effects. This shows that green tea research is expanding beyond a focus on plant extracts into a bio-skincare platform based on fermentation, microbiome, and extracellular vesicles. [15]
In addition, green tea lactic acid bacteria research is expanding into Green Tea PDRN™. Green Tea PDRN™ is a plant-derived PDRN ingredient extracted from patented lactic acid bacteria obtained from Jeju green tea, and it is designed to have a low-molecular-weight structure about 1/10 the size of conventional salmon-derived PDRN. In that it is a vegan ingredient derived from green tea lactic acid bacteria rather than an animal-based raw ingredient, it is meaningful not only for improving skin condition but also as a sustainable, high-efficacy skincare material. [16]
Another key axis of green tea research is Senomune™. Senomune™ is a triterpenoid saponin-class ingredient derived from green tea roots, and Amorepacific, after screening more than 100 of its own and other companies' ingredients, confirmed that tea plant root extract can have senolytic and senomorphic benefits. In other words, Senomune™ can be interpreted as an ingredient that approaches cell-senescence-based skin aging by removing senescent cells or by regulating the harmful signals (SASP) secreted by senescent cells. [17]
Based on this, Amorepacific developed Senomune™ technology that targets aging-related factors, and through NBRI (New Beauty Research Initiative), a joint research program with Johns Hopkins School of Medicine, it is verifying the potential to alleviate immune cell damage and inflammatory responses caused by fine dust (PM), expanding Senomune™ into a technology for skin immune balance and environmental stress response. [17][18][19]
Based on this Senomune™ research, IOPE utilizes Senomune™ as its own proprietary anti-aging ingredient that targets aging factors. This shows that green tea research is expanding beyond simple raw ingredient development into a brand technology asset that connects cell senescence, skin immunity, and environmental stress response. [20]
Amorepacific's green tea research is developing into an integrated bio platform connecting cultivar breeding, ingredient optimization, extraction technology, fermentation, the microbiome, exosomes, Green Tea PDRN™, Senomune™, and skin efficacy verification. Green tea is now establishing itself not merely as a heritage raw ingredient but as a skin-longevity-based skincare research axis encompassing skin hydration, barrier, anti-inflammation, regeneration, cell-senescence regulation, and immune balance. [12][16][17]
Realistic Application in Cosmetics
When applying this scientific background to cosmetics, several practical considerations are necessary.
Related research has been conducted in various fields such as pharmaceuticals, health functional foods, and high-concentration topical clinical studies, while in cosmetics it works primarily at the skin's surface and the stratum corneum. [1][3] In addition, since catechins are hydrophilic polyphenols sensitive to light and oxygen, their stability and skin delivery efficiency are greatly influenced by formulation design [1], so it is advisable to approach green tea not as an "all-purpose solution" but as "one part of a skincare routine," while also considering directions suited to your purpose such as antioxidant, photoaging support, and tone refinement. Amorepacific conducts integrated research from raw ingredient quality control at the Dolsongi, Seogwang, and Hannam Tea Fields in Jeju through to the extraction process and formulation stability. [8][10]