Scientific Understanding of Ginseng Mechanism of Action
Amorepacific researchers focus on the mechanism of action of Ginseng to explore its potential in cosmetics. The main pathways of action of Ginseng mentioned in the research literature can be summarized as follows.
Collagen-related biological pathways of ginsenosides
Purified ginseng leaf extract (PGLE) and selected ginsenosides have been studied for collagen-related pathways associated with skin firmness. In cell-based models, some ginseng-derived compounds have been reported to influence markers related to collagen maintenance and skin structure. [4][5]
Antioxidant and skin protection mechanism
Ginsenosides are bioactive components of ginseng with various functions such as anti-aging, antioxidant, and skin vitality support. [6] Plant extracts obtained from the root are rich in ginsenosides, and these active molecules protect the epidermis from environmental stressors such as UV rays, pollution, and tobacco smoke. In particular, ginsenoside Rb1 inhibits the expression of MMP-1 (matrix metalloproteinase-1), a protease that breaks down collagen in the extracellular matrix. [7]
Amorepacific's Ginseng Research
History of Ginseng Research
Amorepacific's ginseng research has continued since the introduction of a ginseng-based cosmetic in 1966. From the 1970s, it conducted full-scale research on saponins, ginseng's key active ingredient, and in the 1990s, Amorepacific focused on elucidating the skin efficacy of ginseng components. Subsequently, in the 2000s, it advanced its research by securing bioconversion technology that efficiently produces rare saponins using enzymes. [9]
Ginsenomics™ Technology
Amorepacific has studied the components and efficacy of various parts of ginseng—not only the root but also the flower, seed, leaf, and stem—and has expanded the scope of its research to the mass production and efficacy validation of rare saponins, as well as research on cultivation environments and varieties. These integrated research achievements have been established as a proprietary technology system called "Ginsenomics™." Ginsenomics™ can be defined as a technology platform for selecting rare active saponins with high skin efficacy among the various saponins in ginseng and efficiently securing and utilizing them. [9]
Compound K Research
The core of recent research is focused on Compound K, a representative rare saponin secured through the Ginsenomics™ system. Compound K is the final metabolite produced when ginseng saponins are broken down by intestinal microorganisms, and it is known to be a form with higher bioavailability and activity than conventional ginseng. According to academic research, Compound K has been studied for its effects on skin biological responses associated with UV exposure and environmental stress. [18]
In addition, Amorepacific is expanding the functional scope of Compound K in skincare applications through patents. Related patents propose compositions for improving skin turnover cycle, improving skin sagging, and improving skin radiance and clarity, respectively. In particular, with regard to improving radiance and clarity, an epidermal-dermal composite improvement approach was proposed through increased KRT10 expression and KLF4 recovery in the epidermal layer and inhibition of MMP-1 expression in the dermal layer. [19][20][21]
Recently published research has also suggested that Ginsenomics™ technology can regulate skin aging-related biological responses and contribute to maintaining the structural stability of the skin. This suggests that research based on ginseng-derived ingredients is expanding in terms of the functional maintenance of the skin's support structure. [22]
Lymphanax™ Research
In addition, Amorepacific is expanding its ginseng material research to the entire skin ecosystem through research on "Lymphanax™," a naturally aged ginseng material. Lymphanax™ is a material made by naturally aging ginseng for about 500 hours, and it was confirmed that the content of Gypenoside XVII and ginsenoside Re increases during the aging process. Amorepacific has also explored Lymphanax™, a naturally aged ginseng-derived material, in research models related to the skin environment and barrier-associated responses, and a joint study with Sungkyunkwan University reported that this ingredient can exhibit an anti-inflammatory effect by regulating the AKT/NF-κB pathway. [23]
Realistic Application in Cosmetics
When applying this scientific background to cosmetics, several practical considerations are necessary.
Some cosmetics contain ginseng extract from Korea and other countries, and ginseng is thought to offer beneficial effects on human skin. However, it is not yet clear which ginseng component is the main active compound that directly contributes to skin health or addresses visible signs of skin aging. It is also important to understand the mechanisms by which ginseng components exert their effects on the skin and skin health. [3]
Cosmetics work primarily at the skin's surface, and the stratum corneum, and delivery technology, formulation, and formula stability comprehensively determine the perceived effect. It is advisable to approach an ingredient not as an "all-purpose solution" but as "one part of a skincare routine."
Amorepacific's Research Direction
Amorepacific is researching the potential of Ginseng from multiple angles. It conducts comprehensive research on skin biology, delivery technology, and formulation stability, and considers the ethical sourcing of raw materials, environmental impact, and long-term skin health from the perspective of sustainable beauty.
Based on Amorepacific's more than 60 years of accumulated technological expertise, Sulwhasoo continues its proprietary ginseng research from the root to the stem, leaf, fruit, and seed of ginseng. [9]
You can learn more about Amorepacific's research and development philosophy and technology trends at the link below.