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Have you ever experienced your skin feeling stiff even after cleansing, your skin tone looking dull from a buildup of dead skin cells, or your makeup constantly flaking? When dead skin cells fail to shed properly, skin texture becomes rough, the absorption of subsequent products declines, and your skin can feel congested overall. If your concerns are "exfoliation care," "smoothing skin texture," or "enzyme peeling," the ingredient that comes to mind is Protease. As an enzyme that breaks down proteins, it is used in cosmetics for its role in gently clearing away the dead skin cells on the skin's surface.

While Protease is an ingredient with a long research history in the medical and dermatological fields, how it works in cosmetics may differ from its applications in medical research. For those concerned about rough skin caused by a buildup of dead skin cells, who want gentle exfoliation rather than physical scrubs, or who wish to choose cosmetics based on ingredients, we explore Protease from the perspective of a cosmetic ingredient and introduce how it can be incorporated into your skincare routine.

Protease at a Glance

CategoryKey SummaryCheck Point
Ingredient Name
Protease
May be labeled in various types such as Papain, Bromelain, and Subtilisin
Ingredient Classification
Proteolytic Enzyme
A collective term for enzymes that hydrolyze proteins, producing mixtures of amino acids or peptides
Source
Extracted from fungi (Aspergillus niger, Aspergillus oryzae, etc.), bacteria (Bacillus subtilis, etc.), and plants (papain, ficin, bromelain)
Classified as plant-derived (papaya, pineapple, fig, etc.) and microorganism-derived [4]
Expected Skin Benefits
Exfoliation, smoother skin texture, skin clarity, improved product absorption, makeup adhesion
Gradual rather than immediate, felt through consistent use
Functions in Research
A proteolytic enzyme is a biological catalyst that can act as an exfoliant by mimicking the skin's natural shedding process [1]
Based on medical applications; cosmetic results vary by individual
Suitable Skin Types
Skin concerned with dead skin cell buildup, sensitive skin for which physical scrubs are too harsh, skin concerned with a dull skin tone, skin with poor product absorption
Consultation with a specialist is recommended for highly sensitive skin or specific skin conditions
Precautions
As with other cosmetic ingredients, it may cause allergic reactions or skin irritation in certain individuals, especially those sensitive to proteins; a patch test is recommended for sensitive skin [2][12]
Check co-formulated ingredients and avoid excessive use

What is Protease?

Protease is a type of enzyme that breaks down proteins into smaller peptides and amino acids. [3] Protease is not a single compound but a broad family of enzymes that catalyze the hydrolysis of peptide bonds within proteins. [3] Chemically, it is classified into several types, such as serine proteases, cysteine proteases, aspartic proteases, and metalloproteases.

In nature, proteases are found in plants such as papaya (papain) and pineapple (bromelain), as well as in animals and microorganisms. [3] Protease used as a cosmetic ingredient is mainly extracted from plants or obtained through microbial fermentation. Plant-derived proteases are enzyme preparations obtained from plants such as papain, ficin, and bromelain, which hydrolyze proteins to produce low molecular weight peptides and the like. [4]

The application of Protease in the field of dermatology began in the area of managing damaged skin tissue. Proteases (such as collagenase) have long been commonly used in dermatological products to remove necrotic and crusted wounds such as bedsores and skin ulcers. [5] Based on this experience in medical use, it has expanded into the field of cosmetics.

Found in many organisms, including plants and animals, proteases are a diverse group of enzymes that provide important physiological activity in various reactions associated with multiple organ systems. [5] The shedding of a healthy epidermis involves a "one-to-one coupling" of keratinocyte formation (basal layer) and corneocyte desquamation, and for shedding to occur, a "temporally and spatially well-coordinated" proteolytic enzyme system in epidermal differentiation is required. [5]

Differences Between Protease and Similar Ingredients

There are similar ingredients often mentioned alongside Protease. Understanding the characteristics of each ingredient is helpful when checking a product's ingredient list.

Ingredient NameCharacteristicsOrigin
Papain
A powerful enzyme contained in papaya that effectively removes dead skin cells and helps relieve clogged pores and dullness [8]
Papaya
Bromelain
Abundant in pineapple, has been studied for enzymatic activity and gentle exfoliation-focused skincare applications [8]
Pineapple
Ficin
Found in figs, a relatively mild enzyme with soothing properties suitable for sensitive skin [8]
Fig
Subtilisin
Derived from bacteria and classified together with keratinase, which has been studied for keratin degradation and exfoliation-related applications [3]
Bacteria (Bacillus)

These enzymes are effective for gentle exfoliation because they selectively break down the keratin proteins in the outermost skin layer. [3] Protease is an overarching concept that encompasses these individual enzymes, and depending on the product, it is formulated as a single enzyme or a combination of several enzymes.

Benefits of Protease

When discussing Protease in cosmetics, the key point is "gently breaking down the proteins (keratin) on the skin's surface to support natural shedding of dead skin cells." Based on the research accumulated in the medical field, the benefits you can expect from cosmetics are summarized as follows.

1. Gentle Exfoliation

When dead skin cells build up on the skin's surface, the skin tone becomes dull, and the skin appears rough. The function of protease enzymes is to gently break down the proteins of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. [3] Protease enzymes break down proteins, softening accumulated keratin and making dead skin cells easier to shed naturally. [7] Unlike other exfoliation methods, such as scrubs, protease enzymes soften keratin through a chemical reaction, so there is less friction on the skin, making them a gentler option. [7] However, in cosmetics, they work primarily at the skin's surface, so the perceived effect is gradual.

2. Smoother Skin Texture and Makeup Adhesion

When the skin's surface is rough and dead skin cells flake, makeup does not adhere well, and the skin tone appears uneven. This enzymatic exfoliation promotes cell turnover on the skin's surface, revealing smoother and brighter skin. [3] The role of these enzymes in skincare is particularly noteworthy because they provide a gentle yet effective exfoliating action, improve the penetration of active ingredients, and contribute to improving the appearance of skin texture and overall skin smoothness. [8] This effect can be experienced when using cosmetics, but may vary depending on individual skin condition and environment.

3. Support for Improving Skin Clarity

When dead skin cells build up, the skin looks dull and lifeless. Enzyme peeling dissolves the dead skin cells that can accumulate on the skin's surface and cause dullness, rough texture, and clogged pores, revealing newer and fresher skin, and can help improve skin texture and smoothness as well as the brightness and evenness of the skin tone. [1][8] However, since topical application through cosmetics works primarily at the skin's surface, any improvement in clarity is gradual and cumulative.

4. Skin Barrier Support

Protease is a type of enzyme that can help remove accumulated dead skin cells and support a smoother-looking skin surface. [1] As a cosmetic ingredient, Protease can remove old, dead skin cells to reduce skin flaking and help moisturizers work better to restore the skin barrier. [10] This can indirectly contribute to maintaining skin barrier function.

5. Combination with Other Ingredients

Protease can offer synergistic effects when used together with various active ingredients. Rather than replacing chemical exfoliants, using a product containing Protease can help support smoother skin texture and overall skin condition. [1][8] When used with moisturizing ingredients, skin hydration improves after exfoliation, and when used with Vitamin C, it can help with skin tone management.

Amorepacific's Perspective on Protease

Skin changes every day amid different environments and conditions. Rather than presenting a particular ingredient as the "right answer," Amorepacific has explored ways to flexibly select and use ingredients according to each individual's skin condition and goals. Protease is likewise an ingredient whose potential has been explored from multiple angles through long-term research.

Scientific Understanding of Protease Mechanism of Action

Amorepacific researchers focus on the mechanism of action of Protease to explore its potential in cosmetics. The main pathways of action of Protease mentioned in the research literature can be summarized as follows. [5]

Stratum corneum protein degradation mechanism

The effects induced by protease enzymes are to (1) inhibit the function of physiological proteins by breaking them down into inactive components, (2) convert inactive precursor proteins into active physiological peptides, or (3) act as signaling agents that activate the upregulation of specific processes or pathways. [5] Proteases break down proteins, particularly targeting the keratin proteins that cause buildup and roughness. [3]

Shedding process support mechanism

As human skin ages, the rate of shedding and the rate of epidermal cell turnover decrease significantly over time. [5] Many proteases and protease inhibitors in the skin are involved in regulating various physiological activities, and the normal shedding of corneocytes in the upper stratum corneum is a key process in maintaining healthy skin. [5]

Amorepacific's Protease Research

Amorepacific has conducted a wide range of research into skincare solutions that leverage the mechanism of action of enzymes on the skin. As a representative example, IOPE utilizes Bio-redox, a proprietary ingredient that closely replicates thioredoxin (TRX), a skin-active enzyme, and is designed so that bio-turnover ingredients support the cycle of corneocyte formation and shedding to maintain a healthy skin condition. [13]

In particular, Amorepacific has recently expanded its scope to exfoliation care research utilizing microorganism-derived enzymes to complement the irritation limitations of physical and chemical peeling. The keratin-degrading enzyme (keratinase) obtained from Chryseobacterium camelliae Dolsongi-HT1, a green tea-derived microorganism from the Dolsongi Tea Field, was proposed as a cosmetic composition for skin exfoliation, leading to an approach that breaks down skin dead cells more precisely. [14]

In addition, ingredients derived from this strain were also proposed as a composition that can suppress or remove the accumulation of lipofuscin and help with whitening and skin tone improvement. [15]

Realistic Application in Cosmetics

When applying this scientific background to cosmetics, several practical considerations are necessary.

While proteolytic enzymes have a history of use in skincare products, it is not known whether they simply induce superficial exfoliation or whether continued use can change epidermal and dermal skin characteristics. [10] Research on the pH, temperature, and stabilization of enzymes in cosmetic formulations has been evaluated as an important aspect for preventing the loss of enzyme activity and potential allergens/irritation to the skin. [1] Cosmetics work primarily at the skin's surface, and the stratum corneum, and delivery technology, formulation, and formula design determine the perceived effect. It is advisable to approach an ingredient not as an "all-purpose solution" but as "one part of a skincare routine."

Amorepacific's Research Direction

The Amorepacific R&I Center integrates a deep understanding of nature and plant-based principles with cutting-edge technology. Striving to be the first and the best, the R&I Center will continue its technological innovation to deliver high-quality products to customers around the world. [11] Amorepacific researches the potential of enzyme ingredients from multiple angles beyond simple ingredient formulation, comprehensively studying a deep understanding of skin biology, delivery technology, and formulation stability. From the perspective of sustainable beauty, Amorepacific also considers the ethical sourcing of raw materials, environmental impact, and long-term skin health.


Products utilizing Protease-related technology can be found in Amorepacific brands such as INNISFREE, AP BEAUTY, and HERA.

You can learn more about Amorepacific's research and development philosophy and technology trends at the link below.

INNISFREE Protease for Skin: What It Is, Benefits, and How It Works benefits INNISFREE Protease for Skin: What It Is, Benefits, and How It Works benefits
AP BEAUTY Protease for Skin: What It Is, Benefits, and How It Works benefits AP BEAUTY Protease for Skin: What It Is, Benefits, and How It Works benefits
HERA Protease for Skin: What It Is, Benefits, and How It Works benefits HERA Protease for Skin: What It Is, Benefits, and How It Works benefits
Explore Amorepacific Research & Innovation

Protease Fact Check

We examine information about Protease that is frequently misunderstood or exaggerated to gain a more balanced understanding of its characteristics as a cosmetic ingredient.

QuestionFact Check
Does Protease guarantee skin regeneration?
More robust in vivo studies are needed before enzymatic exfoliation can be safely recommended under current conditions. [1] Cosmetics focus on skin surface care, and "guaranteed regeneration" is an exaggerated expression.
Can using Protease cosmetics produce the effects of a procedure?
Protease-based exfoliation acts primarily on proteins present at the skin surface and may be perceived as gentler than some exfoliation approaches, although individual responses vary. [3] Cosmetics and medical procedures differ in the depth and intensity of their action.
Is Protease suitable for all skin types?
As with other cosmetic ingredients, it may cause allergic reactions or skin irritation in certain individuals, especially those sensitive to proteins; a patch test is recommended for sensitive skin. [2][12]
Do I see immediate effects when I apply Protease?
Treatment with a 15% enzyme product showed significant improvement in epidermal characteristics after one month, and in both epidermal and dermal characteristics after three months. [10] Consistent use is needed.
Is a higher concentration of Protease always better?
Research on the pH, temperature, and stabilization of enzymes in cosmetic formulations is important for preventing the loss of enzyme activity and potential allergens/irritation to the skin. [1] Appropriate concentration and formulation stability are more important.
Is Protease extracted from only one source?
The origin of Protease can be natural—obtained from plants, animals, and microorganisms—or synthetic, made in a laboratory. [2][12] It can be extracted from a variety of sources.

How to Experience Protease Benefits

  • Realistic Changes to Expect

With consistent use of cosmetics containing Protease, you may feel that the old, dead skin cells on the skin's surface are gently shed, and your skin texture becomes smoother. You may experience your skin tone looking clearer, and the subsequent skincare products may absorb more effectively. You may experience improved makeup adhesion and a softer feel to your skin. These changes appear gradually and cumulatively rather than dramatically.

  • Changes That Are Difficult to Expect

Improvement of deep wrinkles, regeneration deep into the skin, procedure-level effects, and permanent skin changes are difficult to expect from cosmetics alone. For these purposes, it is advisable to combine chemical exfoliants such as AHA/BHA, consider retinoid-class ingredients, or find an appropriate solution through consultation with a specialist.

Safety of Protease

Protease is generally used safely as a cosmetic ingredient. However, as with all cosmetic ingredients, individual reactions may vary, so please refer to the following.

General Safety

Protease is an enzyme that hydrolyzes nonspecific proteins and is classified as a solvent and skin-conditioning agent. [12] Regarding the safety of Protease, this ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics. [2][12] Because regulatory bodies such as the EU Cosmetics Regulation set strict rules on the safety of ingredient use, consumers can be assured that most proteases used in commercial cosmetics have been tested and meet safety standards. [2][12]

When Caution is Needed

As with other cosmetic ingredients, it may cause allergic reactions or skin irritation in certain individuals, especially those sensitive to proteins, so for sensitive skin, it is advisable to perform a skin allergy test before using a product containing Protease. [2][12] If you are allergic to certain fruits (papaya, pineapple, fig, etc.), it is advisable to check the origin of the enzyme ingredient. [1] Consultation with a specialist is recommended if you have existing skin concerns.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What exactly is Protease?

Protease is an enzyme that breaks down proteins into smaller peptides and amino acids; it is not a single compound but a broad family of enzymes that catalyze the hydrolysis of peptide bonds within proteins. [3] In cosmetics, it is used for the purpose of gently breaking down the keratin proteins on the skin's surface to support exfoliation.

What should sensitive skin keep in mind when using Protease products?

Unlike acids, Protease does not penetrate deeply, making it safer for sensitive skin types. [3] However, the co-formulated ingredients, rather than the ingredient itself, can be a variable. If alcohol, fragrances, strong surfactants, and similar ingredients are co-formulated, they can be irritating, so checking the full ingredient list and performing a patch test are important. [1]

What ingredients are good to use together with Protease?

When used with moisturizing ingredients (hyaluronic acid, glycerin), skin hydration improves after exfoliation. [10] When used with niacinamide, you can expect synergy for smoothing skin texture and skin tone management.

Can I use Protease together with exfoliating ingredients (AHA/BHA)?

Rather than replacing chemical exfoliants, using a product containing Protease can help support smoother skin texture and overall skin condition. [1][8] However, rather than using them simultaneously on the same day, using them on separate days is better for preventing irritation from over-exfoliation.

Can I use Protease products right after a procedure?

It depends on the type and intensity of the procedure and skin condition, so the medical professional's guidance takes top priority. In general, the skin is sensitive immediately after laser or peeling procedures, so it is advisable to start using products containing enzyme ingredients after the skin has stabilized. [3]

When can I expect to feel the effects of Protease?

Treatment with a 15% enzyme product showed significant improvement in epidermal characteristics after one month, and improvement in both epidermal and dermal characteristics after three months. [10] Superficial effects such as exfoliation can be felt relatively quickly, but improvement in skin texture is felt cumulatively through consistent use. Results may vary depending on individual skin condition.

What are the differences between Protease and similar ingredients?

Types of proteases include papain (papaya-derived), bromelain (pineapple-derived), subtilisin (bacteria-derived), and keratinase (an enzyme studied for keratin degradation and exfoliation-related applications). [3] Papain may be suitable for relatively strong exfoliation care, ficin for mild exfoliation care for sensitive skin, and Bromelain has been studied for its enzymatic activity and its potential use in gentle exfoliation-focused skincare applications. [1][8] When choosing a product, it is helpful to check for the enzyme type that suits your skin type.

Sources

※ The effects and technologies of ingredients described in this content are based on Amorepacific's own research and publicly available academic and scientific sources to provide a general understanding of cosmetic ingredients. It is not intended for medical diagnosis or treatment purposes. For personal medical concerns, please consult a qualified medical professional.